![]() The length should be slightly longer than 13". Use the same calculation, substituting the height of your image, to calculate the width to cut for the top and bottom borders. Iron on the back side of the block, pressing the seams outward from the photo block Using a 5/8” seam allowance, sew the borders you just cut to the left and right sides of the photo block you used for the calculation above. Note that the border fabric is less likely to stretch if it is cut lengthwise on the fabric (going the same direction as the selvage). The length should be the same as the height of the image including the margins. ![]() This gives you the width to cut for the two side borders. In simplified form, the width of the border should be 15.5” minus the width of your photo image (rounded down to the nearest inch), divided by two. Subtract the width of the photo image, not including the seam allowance, rounding down to the nearest inch.The quilt block should end up 13” wide.I love math, but wanted to guestimate how wide to cut the boarder strips. Be precise when you need to be and wing it the rest of the time!) This, of course, makes it more “interesting” when it came time to add the borders. (Much more fun that way! Everyone needs a balanced life. You will need at least 13” of each fabric 13” of 45”-wide fabric will be enough to make about two quilt blocks.Įach of my images were slightly different sizes because I eye-balled them when laying them out in PowerPoint. If the subject of your quilt is a person, select fabric that reminds you of that person, their favorite books, movies and hobbies. If your quilt is about your trip to Hawaii, select various fabrics with palm trees, pineapples, hula dancers, etc. Select fabric that has meaningful imagery. This project consists of 20 quilt blocks that are about 12” square when finished. The second step is to create your quilt blocks. If you have never used a rotary cutter and self-healing mat, now is the time to start. Use a ruler, rotary cutter and self-healing mat to trim a 1/2" margin around each image. ![]() Let cool, then peel off the paper backing. Let the fixative dry, preferably several hours or overnight. I used Grumbacher matt final fixative, but another brand would work. apply two light coast of spray fixative (often used to keep pastel and chalk drawings from smearing) to the front of each printout. If you are going to the effort and expense to make photo transfers, you want the images to last. Also, make sure you print on the fabric side rather than the smooth paper side of the sheet. Inkjet fabric sheets are a bit pricey ($1 to $2 per sheet), so it is a good idea to shop around and do a test run on plain paper first. Load the sheets into your Inkjet printer or Inkjet copier and print away. Each 8.5"x11" sheet consists of a piece of cotton fabric with a paper backing. I tried using Mod Podge® photo transfer medium, but the image was a bit rubbery and didn't fare well in the wash. Using iron-on transfers can be tricky and sometimes you do not get a clear transfer of the entire image. Some methods are more successful than others. There are a variety of ways to transfer an image to fabric. Insert your pictures and resize them to fit on the page. I used a rectangle that was 1" wide and several inches long as a temporary spacer between images. This was to build in the 1/2" margin around the image and to maximize the space available for images. First, I made sure the page margins were set to 1/2" (in PP, click Design > Page Setup). I used PowerPoint 2010 to lay out the images on the page. For this project, I suggest two photos per sheet with a 1" border (1/2" plus 1/2" = 1") between photos. Each image needs a 1/2" margin surrounding the image. My images were arranged within the confines of an 8.5"x11" sized sheet of paper. For a 4'x5' quilt, you will need 20 images. Use images that have good resolution when enlarged. The first step to create your quilt is to select and transfer images of your photos onto fabric.
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